May 27, 2004.  After our stay in Volterra, it was off to Venice.  Today was our  anniversary so where better for the lovebirds to be  than in a gondola?  OK, so it took us a few days to get into a gondola.  We both thought it would be extremely cheesy but felt compelled out of romantic necessity to try it.  We were both very surprised--it actually *was* very romantic and so nice to get away from the packed walkways of the city.  Cashed in all those Starwood points for a free stay at the Danieli